Classic Coat, Classic Details

My name is Lindsay and it has been 3 days since the air conditioning kicked on in my house. Today is October 14th. I live in Los Angeles.

A few weeks ago I went wool shopping in the fabric district in downtown LA and it was 95 degrees. I couldn’t do it- I just COULDN’T buy fabric for a winter coat. Thankfully Christina (who lives in chilly Denmark) forgave me for buying a lighter weight home dec fabric, and I couldn’t wait to get cracking on this challenging pattern test.

Link to pattern Classic Coat (affiliate link)
Layers? Yes
No-trim pages? Yes
Measurements for bands? N/A
Print Chart? N/A all pages required
Sizes 0-16
Variations Welt vs Patch pocket
Finishing Facing for lapel, collar, and pockets; blind-stitched hems for sleeves and hem; fully lined
Pattern Details Very clear cutting instructions for cutting, separate pattern pieces for fusible interfacing; darts at bust and neck/ shoulders; 2-piece sleeves
Fabrics Wool is recommended, but any mid- to heavy weight fabric with some drape and no stretch that can stand the heat of vigorous pressing would work.

Note: Do NOT shirk on the pressing. Every step. No slacking.

For me, the best part of this pattern was the stack of challenges. There are a TON of pattern pieces to cut, and lots of fabric. I actually love that Christina provides separate pattern pieces for the interfacing, because she has designed specific areas where the interfacing does not need to be in order to reduce bulk. I got a blister on my scissors thumb the night I did my cutting, but that’s because I was watching TV and too lazy to go upstairs and use my cutting mat and rotary cutter.

I have had a personal vendetta against notched collars since 2005 when I botched a Vogue pattern for a suit coat. The instructions were so perplexing, and I was such a novice that I chucked my project after ruining the collar twice. Apparently I hold grudges against patterns way longer than I do against people…

SONY DSC

LOOK AT MY COLLAR! It’s gorgeous. Christina’s instructions were clear and logical, and truthfully the collar was finished before I realized that I was even close.

SONY DSC

I mastered welt pockets with all of my bag-making, so I always relish the chance to add them to a project. These turned out very well. Even though I didn’t make any effort at pattern matching, the busyness of my fabric has them blend right in.

SONY DSC

The welt pockets are quite roomy, and have a good amount of facing so the lining is never actually visible.

SONY DSC

This lining was actually a joy to install! This shows the front facing and towards the top you can see that there is a pleat to make sure the lining is roomy enough to be comfortable. All seams are fully enclosed, though it is a bit tricky installing it because you’ve already lined the sleeves when you attach the lining to the facing. I ran this seam in three steps, before sleeve 1, between the sleeves, and after sleeve 2. I only had to hand stitch the blind hem on the sleeves, and to close up the opening in the center back that I left open to turn. I was able to blind stitch the hem by machine! That’s always occasion for celebration.

SONY DSC

And HERE IT IS! The bust darts and darts along the neck and shoulder line make for a gorgeous fit while leaving plenty of room to wear over bulky winter layers. The two-piece sleeves are a revelation. This was my first time making a pattern with two-piece sleeves and they follow the natural curve of my arms so well.

 

 

 

 

 

Advertisements

3 responses to “Classic Coat, Classic Details

  1. This is beautiful! I can’t get much wear out of wool here in the South either, but home decor material makes so much sense. And that close-up of your collar, wow!

  2. Pingback: Blixen Blazer Release: Wardrobe By Me | DoodleNumber5·

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s